Demystifying Garden Jargon: A Guide for Growing Gardeners

At Rooted In, our expert horticulturists are more than just plant specialists—they’re truly educators at heart. Deep down, at the “root” of it all, we truly just want to help folks succeed in the garden– and to learn the skills that will help them grow! But we also understand that sometimes gardening can feel overwhelming, especially with all the technical terms that get thrown around (not to mention that bizarre Texas weather). Understanding these common horticulture terms can help lay the groundwork to feel more confident in the garden. Let’s dig into some of the most confusing terms and make sense of them!

Annual vs. Perennial vs. Short-Lived Perennial

One of the most basic distinctions gardeners need to understand is the difference between annual and perennial plants.

• Annual plants complete their life cycle in a single growing season and then they die, sending out seeds to sire the next generation. Think of zinnias, cosmos, or firewheels (aka Indian blankets) which thrive during the growing season… and then say goodbye after fall’s first freeze. There are also annuals which are commonly planted (and only thrive in) cooler weather like pansies, alyssum and bluebonnets– and even annuals that thrive primarily in the hotter days of summer. But each of these annuals are short-lived and are best used just as accents in smaller beds, as border plants, pocket prairies, or to give a burst of color to pots and planters.
• Perennials, on the other hand, stick around for the long haul. These plants come back year after year (at least 3 years or more), making them a favorite for many gardeners who want consistent blooms with less replanting. Examples include autumn sage, Texas rock  rose and coreopsis. These are best used in the bulk of your planting areas, as they are typically the toughest plants– with the least amount of maintenance needed to keep them thriving!
• Then there’s a middle ground: the short-lived perennial. These plants, like most lavenders, esperanza, and blackfoot daisies, will survive for a few seasons before typically fading out. Don’t let that fool you into thinking they’re any less valuable—they can still offer a good return on your planting investment!

Although not as common, biennial plant species complete their life cycles over two growing seasons. In the first year, they focus on growing roots, stems, and leaves, typically forming a rosette. During the second year, the plant flowers, sets seed, and then dies. Common examples include standing cypress and parsley.

Evergreen vs. Semi-Evergreen vs. Deciduous

Ever notice some plants hold onto their leaves all winter while others seem to disappear? That’s where these terms come into play:

• Evergreens keep their leaves or needles year-round, providing constant color and structure to your garden. Think yaupon hollies, dwarf abelia, or junipers.
• Semi-evergreens may shed some but not all of their leaves in colder weather, offering partial coverage through the winter—or might not lose their leaves at all in a mild winter. Plants like purple skullcap and white mistflower can be evergreen in milder Texas winters but also drop more leaves in harsher freezing conditions.
• Deciduous plants typically lose all of their leaves in the winter, like many trees, ‘Henry Duelburg’ salvia, or American beautyberry. While, they may look bare for a few months over-winter, by spring they’ll reliably burst back to life pushing lush new growth!

Cultivar vs. Variety vs. Species vs. Nativar

These terms get tossed around a lot in plant descriptions, but they have specific meanings that are important to know:

• Species is the most basic identifier and refers to a group of plants that share common characteristics. For example, Rudbeckia hirta is just one of the species names for Black-eyed Susan.
• Variety is a naturally occurring subset within a species. These plants might have unique features, such as color or form, but occur naturally in the wild. Pink turk’s cap is one example.
• Cultivar is short for “cultivated variety.” It refers to plants that have been selectively bred by humans for particular traits, like disease resistance or unique flower colors. Cultivars are often marked by single quotes, such as Rudbeckia hirta ‘Goldsturm’.
• Nativar is a newer term, blending “native” with “cultivar.” It refers to a cultivated version of a native plant. While many nativars have been selected from wild populations, others have been selectively bred to enhance certain traits.

The truth is that many nativars are frequented by pollinators at the same rate as their wild-seeded cousins (sometimes even more so), while others are unfortunately less attractive to native fauna—especially when breeding results in double flowers or flowers without their natural “landing strips”.  Nativars cannot easily be lumped together for that reason, as their impact on local ecosystems can vary from cultivar to cultivar, when compared to their wild relatives.

It should also be noted that most “Texas Native” perennials available for purchase at garden centers are grown from cuttings, selected from either cultivated or wild populations. These asexually propagated plants are genetically identical and are sold by growers to wholesale suppliers and retailers across Texas. In this instance, these plants are simply unnamed “nativars” which can be grown without the added fees associated with patented named cultivars.

There is a growing trend of native “newbies”, as well as experienced native evangelists using the term “straight native”. This is not a widely accepted horticultural term and because it doesn’t have a clear definition-means different things to different people. And for the reasons listed above, makes very little sense as a descriptor. The all-too-common perception that an unnamed Texas native plant (lets say mealy blue sage) is somehow more beneficial than the ‘Henry Duelburg’ named “nativar” of the same species just doesn’t hold up. At nurseries and garden centers both are (nearly) always propagated by cuttings– having the same genetics of the parent plant. And in this case, both happen to be selected from wild populations.

As we observe the ‘Henry Duelburg’ version vs its unnamed counter part (that some would call a “straight native”) here at the nursery, the resident butterflies and bumblebees anecdotally gravitate to and frequent the named Duelburg selection—perhaps for its larger, fragrant  darker-colored upright blooms.

*If you have valid concerns that a nativar is not as beneficial to wildlife as a “local ecotype”  (a better descriptor of a wild-type native plant), our recommendation… watch for yourself and see if the pollinators use one more than the others. You can simply take some time here at the nursery– or perhaps plant both and watch for yourself the whole season. Selecting plants that our native pollinators prefer is certainly a worthwhile effort and it is critical that we preserve not only local genetics, but diversity as a whole– which helps build resiliency to pests and disease as well.

Texas Native vs. North American Native vs. Adapted

The terms “native” and “adapted” are often used in the same sentence, or even in conjunction but it’s important to make the distinction between each– so you know exactly what you’re buying.

• Texas Natives are plants that have historically grown in the lone star state without human intervention. They’ve evolved in our local conditions, often able to thrive, despite the extreme heat and drought, floods, severe freeze events, or even poor soils. Still, a plant native to Houston, El Paso, or Amarillo may or may not be adapted to North Texas. Texas Native plants that are indigenous to our ecoregion, as well as those natives that are adapted to our climate and soils are typically the best choices.
• North American Natives  include any plants that are native to the broader continent, not just Texas. A plant native to the northeastern U.S. might technically be a native, but that doesn’t mean it’s well-suited to Texas’ heat and soils. However, many plants indigenous to a neighboring state, to northern Mexico (or even further south) grow very well here—and even support our Texas native pollinators and migratory birds as well.
• Adapted plants often come from other parts of the world but are well-suited to Texas’ climate and soil conditions– because the areas they’ve evolved in are similar. Other adapted plants are hybrids between different species, bred for unique characteristics from both parents. Adapted plants often thrive without being invasive, or aggressive making them valuable additions to the garden– and many have added benefit to butterflies, bees or hummingbirds! While some adapted plants are well-behaved in the garden… others trend to creep out of their beds, into other parts of the landscape, neighborhood– and with their seeds are carried by animals (or the wind) into nearby natural areas. In some cases these plants grow out of control, pushing out native plants, as well as the Texas wildlife that depend on those species for survival.

Invasive vs. Aggressive vs. Vigorous vs. Well-Behaved

Here’s where things can get tricky for gardeners: Not every fast-growing plant is a bad guy, but some definitely are harder to control! Weekly we hear folks claim “but it’s NOT invasive in my yard” and unfortunately that doesn’t really take into account the broader picture.

• Invasive plants are non-native species that spread very aggressively and disrupt local ecosystems. They outcompete native plants and can cause serious environmental damage. Examples include Asian Privets, Chinese Pistache, and more recently Vitex. By definition, a Texas native plant cannot be considered invasive.
• Aggressive plants may not be officially classified as invasive, but they can spread rapidly, often taking over a garden (or beyond) if left unchecked. Mint is a classic example—it’s great for tea but can easily overrun a bed if not contained. Native plants like trumpet vine, lyre-leaf sage, and Virginia creeper can also considered aggressive.
• Vigorous plants grow quickly and fill space but don’t necessarily spread beyond the garden. They offer lush growth without being very disruptive, like native Turks Cap, Gregg’s mistflower or Texas rock rose.
• Well-behaved plants are exactly what they sound like—they stay where you plant them and grow at a manageable pace. Many native or adapted perennial flowers, shrubs and trees fall into this category, providing beauty without a battle for control.

*A noxious weed is a plant species that is harmful to agriculture, ecosystems, or human health. In the context of Texas agriculture, noxious weeds are particularly problematic because they can outcompete crops, reduce forage quality for livestock, and disrupt native plant communities. Remarkably, Texas native plants can and are sometimes classified as noxious if they exhibit aggressive or harmful behavior, even though they are indigenous to a region. A plant is classified as “noxious” based on its impact on agriculture, human health, or ecosystems, not just its origin.

Asexual vs. Sexual Propagation

Propagation is simply the way plants reproduce (or the way we reproduce plants), but understanding the differences between asexual and sexual propagation can help you understand and expand your garden more effectively.

• Asexual propagation involves creating new plants from parts of the parent plant. This includes methods like cuttings, layering (cultivating roots where they wouldn’t ordinarily grow), or division. The resulting plants are exact genetic clones of the parent, ensuring that specific traits are carried on. Most turfgrasses, fruit trees, and common landscape plants – especially named cultivars are propagated in this way. In addition to growing more uniform across the board, many growers select cuttings from “mother” plants which have a longer blooming season, most vigorous, are more resistant to pests, or because they are very difficult to grow from seed.
• Sexual propagation refers to growing plants from seeds, where the genetic makeup is a combination of two parent plants. This method can lead to greater genetic diversity, but you never know exactly what traits will emerge. There is a growing trend to produce more native plants in the nursery trade by this method, to ensure the local genetics of our indigenous species are preserved. In nature, this not only helps build resiliency, but also adaptability and resistance to pest and disease. We are currently working to expand or inventory of “local ecotype” native plant material but often carry several plants with local genetics.

Frost vs Hard Freeze

While frost and freeze both refer to cold weather events, but they differ in intensity and impact on plants, and before you know it–we will see both.

• Frost occurs when the air temperature drops near or just below 32°F (0°C), causing moisture on plant surfaces to freeze. Frost typically forms on clear, calm nights and can damage tender (deciduous or annual) plants by freezing the water inside their cells, leading to wilting or blackened leaves. However, the ground and air just above may stay warmer than freezing.

• Hard Freeze refers to a more severe and prolonged, drop in temperature– often well below 32°F (0°C). A light freeze (28-32°F) may harm sensitive plants, while a hard freeze (below 28°F) can cause widespread damage, killing many types of plants, especially those that are not cold-hardy. Freezes affect both the air and soil temperatures, making them more dangerous to plant roots and entire plant systems.

Full Sun to Dense Shade: Understanding Light Conditions

Understanding light requirements is essential for plant health but plant tags can sometimes be confusing, especially when it comes to light preferences. Here’s a breakdown of the common sunlight terms:

• Full Sun: These are plants need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. Ideal for fruiting vegetables, most herbs, and many Texas-tough flowering plants that thrive in strong, consistent sunlight.
• Part Sun: Plants that prefer roughly 4 to 6 hours of direct sunlight per day, but can often tolerate more. Some plant tags are more liberal with their sunlight conditions, not taking into consideration the intense Texas sun and the extreme heat it brings. Many “Part Sun” plants not native to Texas, often do best with morning sun and some afternoon shade to avoid intense heat.
• Part Shade: Plants that can handle about 2 to 4 hours of direct sunlight daily, either in the morning or  late afternoon (often more challenging because of the intense heat). These plants can be sensitive to intense midday or afternoon sun and often do best with more shade during the hottest part of the day.
• Full Shade: Plants that thrive with less than 2 hours of direct sunlight daily but can handle some indirect or dappled light for the rest of the day. Perfect for woodland or understory plants.
• Dense Shade: Plants that tolerate areas with little to no direct sunlight, often receiving only reflected or very filtered light. Suitable for deeply shaded spots like under dense tree canopies or in narrow courtyards.

Compost vs Mulch vs Potting Soil vs Garden Soil

Each plays a specific role in plant health, from providing nutrients (compost), to improving water retention (mulch), to offering an ideal growing medium for different environments (potting and garden soil).

• Compost: Decomposed organic matter rich in nutrients, used to improve soil structure, aid in moisture retention, boost microbial activity, and provide essential nutrients to plants. It’s often mixed into soil or used as a top dressing. *Although compost does slowly provide both macro and micro nutrients over a longer period of time, it cannot be consider a fertilizer.
• Mulch: A protective layer, typically organic (like wood chips, leaves or straw) or inorganic (like stones), spread on top of soil to retain moisture, regulate temperature, suppress weeds, and prevent erosion. Mulch doesn’t immediately provide nutrients like compost, but benefits soil health indirectly.
• Potting Soil: A lightweight, sterile mix designed for container plants. It usually contains a combination of peat or coconut coir, perlite, vermiculite, compost, and sometimes sand to provide good drainage, aeration, and nutrients for potted plants.
• Garden Soil: Denser than potting soil, garden soil incorporates natural soil (often sandy loam) and is designed for in-ground planting. It’s often mixed with compost, fertilizers, expanded shale, and other sources of organic material to improve its texture and fertility—for use in in-ground garden beds.

At Rooted In, we believe that understanding these terms will help you become a more confident and knowledgeable gardener. Gardening is more than just planting—it’s about cultivating a deeper connection with the land and learning to work with nature. So, whether you’re sorting through seed packets or choosing the perfect perennial, we’re here to help you grow, thrive, and, most importantly, enjoy the process!