Growing Fruit in North Texas
(Scroll to the bottom for our full fruit inventory.)
Clay, Heat, Freeze — and Realistic Expectations
Growing fruit in North Texas isn’t impossible — but it does require intention.
We garden in heavy, alkaline clay. We irrigate with mineral-rich tap water. We endure long stretches of triple-digit heat and, every so often, a true Arctic event — statistically about once every 7–10 years. Those realities shape what succeeds here.
Fruit production becomes exceptional when we understand how soil, water, temperature, and plant physiology interact — and when we match species to site instead of forcing the opposite.
Done thoughtfully, North Texas can be remarkably generous.
Soil Structure & Drainage: Start Below the Surface
Most failures don’t begin with cold damage. They begin underground.
Clay soils retain nutrients well, but they drain slowly and can become oxygen-limited when compacted. Across North Texas, texture varies — but the majority of properties sit on dense gumbo clay.
Before planting, test drainage. Dig a hole, fill it with water, and observe how long it takes to drain. If water lingers, structural improvement or elevated planting is not optional.
Planting principles:
-
Loosen an area 2–3 times wider than the container.
-
Incorporate compost and expanded shale where needed to improve pore space.
-
Set the tree slightly above grade.
-
Keep the root flare visible and above soil level.
After planting:
-
Top dress annually with ¼–½ inch of compost.
-
Maintain 2–4 inches of mulch to moderate soil temperature and conserve moisture.
-
Keep mulch 2–4 inches away from the trunk.
Long-term productivity comes from soil structure and biology — not fertilizer alone.
Irrigation: Build Resilience From the Roots
Fruit trees perform best when roots develop deeply and broadly.
Deep, infrequent watering encourages roots to explore stable soil layers. Shallow, frequent irrigation keeps roots near the surface, where heat and drought stress are amplified.
Efficient systems like drip irrigation or multi-stream emitters improve consistency and reduce waste — but the objective remains the same: develop a resilient root system.
Fertility: Balanced, Not Excessive
We prefer a balanced, slow-release fertilizer such as MicroLife:
-
After spring green-up
-
Lightly again in early fall, as trees shift carbohydrates and nutrients back into their root systems
While some fruit species have specific nutrient requirements, excessive nitrogen typically drives vigorous vegetative growth at the expense of flowering and fruit quality. Balanced fertility supports strong structure, consistent bloom set, and proper sugar development.
In our alkaline clay soils, phosphorus (P) is often present but can become chemically tied up and less available to roots under high pH conditions. Organic matter improves availability and biological activity in the root zone. Potassium (K) plays a critical role in fruit size, sugar accumulation, water regulation, and overall stress tolerance — particularly during heat and drought.
High-pH soils can also reduce availability of certain micronutrients, especially iron. If you see yellowing leaves with green veins (iron chlorosis), soil pH is usually the underlying cause.
A balanced fertility program supports fruit quality without overstimulating leafy growth.
Microclimates: Work With What You Have
Placement is often as important as cultivar selection.
-
Southern exposures protected from north winds improve winter survival.
-
Planting near a home can moderate freeze exposure.
-
Slight elevation improves drainage.
-
Cold air settles in low areas — avoid planting freeze-sensitive species there.
Avoid harsh west exposure for blueberries and cherries in particular. North Texas afternoon sun is not subtle.
Wind exposure matters as well. Young peaches and plums may require temporary staking during establishment in exposed areas. Remove staking once roots anchor to promote proper trunk strength.
Hardscape and reflective surfaces can increase ambient heat. That heat can benefit jujube and pomegranate — and stress blueberries and cherries.
Microclimate decisions compound over time.
Pruning: Structure Determines Longevity
Pruning is not cosmetic. It shapes productivity and lifespan.
-
Open center (vase shape): peaches and plums
-
Central leader: apples and pears
-
Remove crossing, inward-facing, and shaded branches annually
Proper pruning improves light penetration, air circulation, and reduces disease pressure. It also ensures fruiting wood remains productive rather than shaded out.
For research-based pruning guidance:
Texas A&M AgriLife Fruit & Nut Resources:
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/
University of California IPM Pruning Basics:
https://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/GARDEN/FRUIT/pruningbasics
Oregon State Extension Pruning Videos:
https://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/berries-fruit-trees/pruning-fruit-trees
Blueberries & Cherries: Beautiful — and Demanding
We focus primarily on species well adapted to North Texas clay and heat. Still, because demand is strong, we offer some of the best-performing blueberry and cherry cultivars available for this region.
Even the best-adapted blueberries and cherries remain higher-management crops here.
Blueberries
-
Require acidic soil (pH 4.5–5.5)
-
Perform best in containers with acidic media
-
Benefit from rainwater or carefully managed irrigation
Without consistent pH management, decline is common.
Cherries
-
Sensitive to prolonged summer heat
-
Sensitive to alkaline soils
-
Benefit from compost amendment and protection from harsh west exposure
They can succeed in favorable microclimates. They simply require more attention than most of our lineup.
Production Reality: Plan for Abundance
Many well-adapted fruits will produce heavily once established.
Figs can overwhelm a household. Pecans can outpace consumption. Peaches and plums often require thinning to prevent limb breakage and improve fruit size.
Fruit thinning, pruning, sanitation (removing spoiled fruit from beneath trees), and harvest timing are essential components of long-term orchard health.
An orchard is not static. It is observed, adjusted, and stewarded.
Take Advantage of Research & Extension Resources
For cultivar data, pest management guidance, and regional recommendations:
Texas A&M AgriLife Fruit & Nut Portal:
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/fruit-nut/
Fact sheets include:
-
Chill requirements
-
Disease management
-
Insect identification
-
Fertility schedules
-
Regional cultivar recommendations
Research provides the framework. Local experience refines it.
ROOTED IN (Current Inventory) FRUIT Availability
Each species and cultivar is adapted North Texas | Listed from Most Adapted (Least Care)→ Least Adapted (More Care)
JUJUBE (Extremely drought tolerant and one of the lowest-maintenance fruit trees for North Texas.)
GA-866
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful (heavier production with Xian Beauty)
Large mahogany fruit with a crisp snap like a sweet apple. When fully brown and sun-cured, sugar levels spike into deep caramel richness.
Xian Beauty
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful (pairs well with GA-866)
Firm, crunchy texture with clean sweetness and excellent productivity in Texas heat.
Coco
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Smaller fruit with concentrated, date-like honey depth. Excellent fresh or dried.
BLACKBERRY / DEWBERRY
Natchez (thornless)
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Massive glossy berries that drip juice when fully ripe. Heavy producer with easy harvest.
Prime-Ark® Freedom (thornless)
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Large, firm, sweet berries with excellent fresh-eating texture. Primocane fruiting allows berries on new growth, extending harvest season and improving reliability in North Texas.
Lucretia (dewberry)
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Early ripening with deep, wine-like blackberry flavor — outstanding for cobbler.
FIG
Celeste
• Cold hardy to ~10°F+
Small violet-brown fruit with amber flesh and thick, jam-dense texture. Deep honey sweetness with a tight eye that resists splitting. Extremely productive and one of the most dependable figs for North Texas.
Violette de Bordeaux
• Cold hardy to ~10°F+
Small, nearly black fruit with dark strawberry-red flesh and intense berry-jam richness. Compact growth habit and among the most complex, dessert-quality figs available.
Ischia Green
• Cold hardy to ~10°F+
Green skin with ruby-amber flesh and refined honey sweetness. Smooth, balanced flavor with exceptional depth when fully ripe. One of the best-tasting and most nuanced figs we grow.
LSU Purple
• Cold hardy to ~10°F+
Medium fruit with dark purple skin and bright strawberry-red flesh. Sweet with noticeable berry notes and strong heat tolerance. Reliable summer producer.
LSU Gold
• Cold hardy to ~10°F
Yellow-gold skin with amber flesh and creamy, dessert-style sweetness. Smooth texture and excellent fresh-eating quality.
Lattarula (Italian Honey)
• Cold hardy to ~10°F
Light green fruit with pale amber flesh and delicate floral honey flavor. Soft, melting texture when fully ripe and elegant sweetness.
Texas Everbearing
• Cold hardy to ~10°F+
Large brown to purple fruit with rosy flesh and rich syrupy sweetness. Vigorous tree with strong main-crop production and extended harvest potential in warm seasons.
Chicago Hardy
• Cold hardy to ~0°F+
Medium dark fruit with deep red flesh and balanced sweetness. Most cold-resilient of the group, reliably regrowing and producing even after hard winter dieback.
MULBERRY
Dwarf Everbearing Black
• Extremely cold hardy • Self-fruitful
Compact, manageable tree with an exceptionally long fruiting window — often ripening for weeks. Sweet, juicy black berries with rich blackberry-like flavor. One of the easiest and most productive fruits you can grow in North Texas.
Red Fruiting (Texas Native)
• Extremely cold hardy • Self-fruitful
Large, vigorous native tree with abundant crops of sweet-tart red to dark purple berries. Tough, drought tolerant, and nearly carefree once established — ideal for shade and wildlife.
PERSIMMON
American Native
• Extremely cold hardy • Often fruits alone; heavier with another American
Small orange fruit that must soften fully before eating, transforming into ultra-sweet, pudding-like richness. Exceptionally tough, drought tolerant, and the most cold-resilient option for North Texas.
Saijo
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Medium orange fruit with silky custard texture and intense honey sweetness when soft. One of the highest-quality astringent persimmons for fresh eating.
Coffeecake (Nishimura Wase)
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Flattened fruit with speckled brown flesh and complex cinnamon-brown sugar notes. Non-astringent when firm and uniquely flavorful among Asian persimmons.
POMEGRANATE
Salavatski
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Deep crimson arils with bold, wine-bright sweet-tart juice. One of the toughest pomegranates available — handles real Texas cold and still delivers classic, old-world intensity.
Surh Anor
• Cold hardy to ~5°F • Self-fruitful
Brilliant ruby arils with a sweeter, smoother profile than Salavatski. Jewel-like fruit with bright, refreshing juice and strong ornamental appeal.
Parfianka
• Cold hardy to ~5°F • Self-fruitful
Premium dessert quality with softer seeds and balanced sweetness. Rich, complex juice that tastes almost berry-like when fully ripe in summer heat.
Al Sirin Nar
• Cold hardy to ~5°F • Self-fruitful
Highly productive with deeply colored fruit and dependable sugar development. Sweet-tart balance with strong visual appeal on the tree.
Kunduzki
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Durable and resilient with good sweetness and firm arils. A rugged selection for growers who want cold tolerance without sacrificing flavor.
PLUMS / HYBRIDS
Mexican Plum (native)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Self-fruitful
Small fruit with bright, wild sweet-tart flavor and a fragrant bloom in early spring. When fully ripe, the flesh softens and turns jammy with old-fashioned country sweetness. Extremely tough, clay-tolerant, and one of the most reliable plums you can plant in North Texas.
Methley
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Self-fruitful; heavier with Santa Rosa or Mexican Plum
Very early ripening with ultra-juicy, ruby flesh that practically bursts when you bite it. High sugar, low acidity, and dependable cropping make this one of the easiest plums to love — and to grow.
Santa Rosa
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with Methley
Deep red flesh with richer, more layered sweetness than Methley. Aromatic, slightly wine-like complexity and firm enough to slice. A classic Japanese plum with serious flavor.
Shiro
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Golden skin and bright yellow flesh with smooth, honeyed sweetness. Mild acidity and clean finish make it refreshing — almost like a chilled summer dessert straight off the tree.
Satsuma
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Striking blood-red flesh and dense, jammy sweetness. Higher sugar and dramatic color make this one unforgettable when fully tree-ripened.
AU Rosa
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Balanced sweet-tart flavor with good firmness and strong disease tolerance. A steady, Southern-adapted performer with classic plum character.
AU Roadside
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Traditional plum flavor — sweet with a gentle tang. Firm texture and dependable production in heat.
Ozark Premier
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Large, showy fruit with bright sweetness and satisfying bite. Excellent fresh eating plum with strong visual appeal.
Scarlet Beauty
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Smooth skin, sweet mellow flesh, and attractive red blush. Easy, approachable flavor for fresh eating.
Black Ice
• Cold hardy to ~-30°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Dark skin with rich, almost black-cherry depth. Firm texture and intense sweetness — excellent cold resilience with serious flavor.
Allred
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Red-fleshed interior with clean sweetness and striking slicing color. A conversation plum that tastes as good as it looks.
Spring Satin (Plumcot)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Better production with cross-pollination
Plum-apricot hybrid with fragrant aroma and juicy, sun-warmed sweetness. Slightly floral, slightly tropical — complex and dessert-worthy when perfectly ripe.
ASIAN PEAR
Shinko
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with Chojuro or Olympic
Bronze-skinned fruit with explosive crunch and clean, refreshing sweetness. High sugar with low grit — one of the most reliable and disease-tolerant Asian pears for North Texas.
Chojuro
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with Shinko or Olympic
Russeted skin and distinctive butterscotch-caramel sweetness. Crisp but slightly richer and more aromatic than Shinko — a unique dessert pear.
Olympic (Korean Giant)
• Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with Shinko or Chojuro
Massive fruit with dense, ultra-juicy crunch. Sweeter and milder, with refreshing, almost melon-like notes when fully ripe. Impressive size and strong late-season appeal.
PECAN
Kanza (Type II)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from planting with Type I (Pawnee or Caddo)
Outstanding scab resistance and consistent production. Medium-sized nuts with rich, buttery kernels and excellent crack-out percentage. One of the most reliable backyard pecans for North Texas.
Lakota (Type II)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from planting with Type I (Pawnee or Caddo)
Strong yields with high kernel quality and attractive, well-filled nuts. Sweet, clean flavor and dependable production when pollinated properly.
Pawnee (Type I)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from planting with Type II (Kanza or Lakota)
Early ripening and large nuts with rich, full-bodied pecan flavor. One of the most popular varieties for home growers due to productivity and early harvest window.
Caddo (Type I)
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from planting with Type II (Kanza or Lakota)
Excellent kernel quality with high percentage fill and sweet, classic pecan flavor. Vigorous tree with strong production in well-managed sites.
ELDERBERRY
Adams
• Cold hardy to ~-30°F • Fruits alone; heavier with Ranch or Wyldewood • Larger, more upright grower (8–10 ft tall and wide)
Large clusters of deep purple-black berries ideal for syrup, wine, and preserves. Vigorous and productive, with classic rich elder flavor when fully ripe.
Ranch
• Cold hardy to ~-30°F • Fruits alone • More compact habit (5–7 ft tall, slightly narrower spread)
Denser plant with heavy berry clusters. Great choice for smaller yards or tighter spaces, still producing richly flavored fruit for culinary use.
Wyldewood
• Cold hardy to ~-30°F • Fruits alone; heavier with Adams or Ranch • Upright and productive (6–8 ft tall, spreading with time)
High-yielding selection known for large, uniform berry clusters. Excellent production and strong performance with adequate moisture.
GRAPES (Best Adapted for North Texas)
Black Spanish
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Texas-tough wine and juice grape with deep, inky color and strong heat tolerance.
Blanc du Bois
• Cold hardy to ~5°F • Self-fruitful
Highly disease-resistant white grape with bright tropical notes.
Lomanto
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Sweet red grape bred for Southern heat.
Victoria Red
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful
Large clusters of crisp, sweet red table grapes.
MUSCADINE
Ison
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful • More tolerant of heavier soils than most muscadines
Large black fruit with rich sweetness and strong disease resistance.
Cowart
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Self-fruitful • Prefers well-drained soils
Classic muscadine sweetness; performs best with good drainage.
STRAWBERRY (Best planted fall; spring planting gives lighter crop.)
Eversweet
• Typically planted as annuals • Self-fruitful
Continuous production with sweet, juicy berries.
Pretty in Pink / Pretty in Rose
• Typically planted as annuals • Self-fruitful
Showy blooms plus flavorful berries — edible and ornamental.
PINEAPPLE GUAVA
Takaka
• Cold hardy to ~10–15°F • Partially self-fruitful; heavier with another
Evergreen shrub with creamy flesh and tropical pineapple-mint flavor.
CRABAPPLE
Sugar Tyme White (Flowering)
• Extremely cold hardy • Excellent pollinator
Masses of fragrant white blooms followed by ornamental fruit.
EUROPEAN PEAR
Warren
• Cold hardy • Partially self-fruitful; better with Orient or Pineapple
Buttery, melting flesh with rich sweetness.
Orient
• Cold hardy • Fruits alone; heavier with Warren
Large, firm fruit with mild sweetness.
Ayers
• Cold hardy • Better production with another pear
Smooth, sweet flesh with excellent fresh-eating quality.
Pineapple
• Cold hardy • Fruits alone; improves with cross-pollination
Light, aromatic flesh with subtle tropical notes.
APPLES
Dorsett Golden
• Chill requirement: ~250–400 hours • Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with a pollinizer like Ein Shemer
Crisp, juicy, bright sweet-tart bite—like a cold glass of lemonade in apple form. Clean, refreshing flavor that stays snappy and satisfying right off the tree.
Ein Shemer
• Chill requirement: ~300–450 hours • Cold hardy to ~-10°F • Partially self-fruitful; better with a pollinizer like Dorsett Golden
This one can be shockingly good when harvested at the right moment: tender-crisp with a honeyed, floral sweetness and a gentle, perfumed aroma. Early-season apple energy—light, fresh, and addictive.
Liberty
• Chill requirement: ~700 hours • Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from cross-pollination
Classic “real apple” flavor with a balanced sweet-tart backbone and very juicy crunch. A great fresh-eating apple that also shines in pies because it keeps its character.
Enterprise
• Chill requirement: ~700–800 hours • Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from cross-pollination
Dense, crisp flesh with deeper sweetness and a richer finish—less bright, more “grown-up.” Excellent for slicing and one of those apples that tastes even better after it’s sat a bit.
Arkansas Black
• Chill requirement: ~800+ hours • Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Benefits from cross-pollination
A cult-classic for a reason: very firm, dark-skinned, with a complex, almost wine-like sweetness that develops with storage. Fresh off the tree it can be intense and tight; after a few weeks it turns smoother, sweeter, and seriously memorable.
BLUEBERRY (Container strongly recommended in NTX clay; requires acidic media, pH 4.5–5.5, AND usually slightly acidified water.)
Tifblue
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Better production when planted with another Rabbiteye (Brightwell, Premier, or Pink Lemonade)
Firm, deep-blue berries with classic, full-bodied blueberry flavor — sweet with a bright snap of acidity. When fully sun-ripened, they’re richer and more concentrated than most grocery store berries.
Brightwell
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Better production when planted with another Rabbiteye (Tifblue, Premier, or Pink Lemonade)
Juicy, balanced berries that taste clean and sweet — the kind you grab by the handful straight off the bush. More flavor and depth than typical store-bought fruit.
Premier
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Better production when planted with another Rabbiteye (Tifblue, Brightwell, or Pink Lemonade)
Large, plump berries with smooth sweetness and tender juiciness. A generous producer that feels substantial in your hand and satisfying on the tongue.
Pink Lemonade
• Cold hardy to ~0°F • Better production when planted with another Rabbiteye (Tifblue, Brightwell, or Premier)
Arguably the most beautiful blueberry plant you can grow — soft pink berries glowing against green foliage. Fully ripe fruit is sweet, low-acid, and smooth, with a delicate berry flavor that’s softer and less sharp than traditional blueberries.
CITRUS
(All citrus perform best in containers in North Texas. Orange Frost is the best candidate for in-ground planting if protected.)
Orange Frost
• Cold hardy to ~18°F with protection (can regrow after severe freeze damage) • Self-fruitful
Sweet, easy-peel mandarin with bright citrus aroma and clean, refreshing sweetness. Juicy segments that separate effortlessly — excellent fresh eating. The toughest citrus option for North Texas ground planting with protection.
Improved Meyer Lemon
• Tender below ~24–25°F • Self-fruitful
Deep yellow fruit with rich, slightly floral juice that’s sweeter and less sharp than grocery store lemons. Heavy producer in containers — outstanding for cooking, drinks, and zest.
Yuzu
• Cold hardy to ~10–15°F once established • Self-fruitful
Highly aromatic fruit prized for its intensely fragrant zest and juice. More about perfume and culinary brightness than sweetness — adds bold citrus complexity to sauces, marinades, and drinks.
CHERRY
(Not well-adapted/ short-lived for NTX; amend w compost and shale; protection from harsh west sun improves success.)
Dwarf North Star
• Cold hardy to ~-30°F • Self-fruitful
Classic tart cherry with deep red flesh and bright, mouth-watering acidity. When fully ripe, the flavor is bold and concentrated — perfect for pies, cobblers, and preserves. Compact growth makes it the more realistic cherry option for North Texas experimentation.
Sweetheart
• Cold hardy to ~-20°F • Self-fruitful
Firm, dark red fruit with sweet, juicy flesh when conditions cooperate. Fresh-picked sweetness far exceeds grocery store cherries — but production can vary in prolonged heat and warm winters.
